” I started making the bottom turn and I felt the lip hit me. You can see it in the video. Usually I don’t have time to look around but you see me look round twice and then I get hit by the white water on the shoulder and it feels like a ton of bricks. I’ve been hit like that before and I’m thinking: I’ve got to make this. I’ve never been held down by a wave that size and I’ve ridden big waves. I’ve seen waves rip a guy’s arms off so there is nothing holding them on but skin and I’m thinking this could tear my head off.”
Crazy big wave in Portugal
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Jos Vorkmans | 15 November 2011
Topics: Surf-Skate-Snow-Sport